glossary
Discover the key terms associated with the professional use of INOA
Ammonia
Ammonia gas solution in water. Gas composed of nitrogen and hydrogen combined. It has the property of making the hair fiber swell by slightly lifting its scales, which allows for the penetration of haircolor agents.
Development time
The necessary time for color to process (lighten and deposit).
Emulsion
Operation that consists of lifting the hair color mixture from the scalp. With INOA, the emulsion begins by lifting the color off the scalp and re-growth WITHOUT ADDING WATER. Once lifted, the emulsion continues by adding a small amount of warm water to facilitate the elimination of the product.
Hydrogen peroxide
An element that releases oxygen. It is unstable and breaks down into water and oxygen. The value of hydrogen peroxide is expressed in the percentage of pure hydrogen peroxide or the volume of releasable oxygen.
Example: 6% or 20 volume.
MEA
Alkaline agent that has the advantage of not having an unpleasant odour, compared to ammonia.
Numbering of shades
To facilitate the use of haircolor products, a numbering system is used to identify the color. For example, it includes: a first number that indicates the tone level (from 1 for black to 10 for the lightest blonde), followed by a period and then one or several numbers indicating the number of the reflect. For example: 6.34: 6 is the level, which in this case equals light brown, the .3 is the primary reflect, which is gold and the .4 is the secondary reflect, which is copper.
Oxidant (Developer)
Agent capable of releasing oxygen, which acts on another component to modify it.
Oxygen
A gas with no smell, colour or flavour, present in the air. It’s an active principle of any hair color phenomenon, such as lightening or haircolor.
Permanent haircolor
This is also known as oxydative haircolor and has permanent results. It simultaneously lightens and deposits color onto the hair.
Reflect
Reflects are more or less vibrant color applied either over a natural haicolor, as in direct colorants or with a fundamental base shade, as in permanent haircolor. The main reflects used are: green / blue / violet / gold / copper / red.
Skin allergy test (patch test)
Mandatory allergy test before using permanent haircolor. A small amount of haircolor mixture (Oleo Gel + Rich Oxidant (Developer) + INOA Colorant in pre-measured proportions with the spoon) is applied on the inside of the elbow. The test must be checked 48 hours later for irritation or itching.
Taking through
Distribution of a haircolor product over the mid-lengths and ends without removing product from the re-growth area. The take-through time is also the time that the product stays on the mid-lengths and ends. This depends on how faded the previous color is.
Level
Depth of the natural color or artificial color of the hair. The level is expressed by a conventional number from 1 to 10, i.e. from darkest to lightest.